Pencil Pine Track

Previously we have explored the walks around Dove Lake and Marions Lookout, completed the Overland Track and had a failed (due to weather) attempt to climb Cradle Mountain. But we haven’t explored the tracks starting near the Cradle Mountain Interpretation Centre (and Ranger Station). This is our account of walking the Pencil Pine Track.

Pencil Pine track: map

Locating the start of the Pencil Pine track

If you aren’t familiar with the area around the Cradle Mountain Lodge and the Ranger Station, you may think the start of this track is a well kept secret. In fact we found the start of the track by accident!

Having checked in to the Cradle Mountain Hotel the previous afternoon, we drove down to the Ranger Station. We were wondering if there may be some information about the walk in the Interpretation Centre, but there wasn’t. There was no obvious signage indicating the start of the track. However on the map the track is shown to intersect with the Enchanted Walk and the Speeler track near the Cradle Mountain Lodge.

We took a stroll around Pencil Pine Creek on the Enchanted walk. As you can see from our photo, this track is suitable for all family members. The fist part of the walk is even wheel-chair accessible, and it is such a scenic walk!

Graham came off the Pencil Pine Creek walking bridge and happened to glance over to his left into the rainforest. And there, partially obscured by a fallen tree, was a small track sign for the Pencil Pine track. Great! So now we knew where to start the walk the next morning.

Walking the Pencil Pine Track

The track through the rainforest

This is certainly a lesser known walking track! It is not well maintained and you need to be vigilant to find and follow the pink tapes.

We drove from our hotel to the Ranger Station, where we parked our car. It had been raining overnight and when we started the walk it was still misty and wet. Patches of snow were on the ground.

This was the first time we had used chains on our shoes. The chains were immediately helpful with walking over the slippery trees roots in the rainforest. And to be honest, I am not sure that I could have completed the walk without them,

Walking in the rainforest here reminded me of the walk up to the Labyrinth in the Pine Valley. Even the weather conditions were similar. It was truly enchanted as the trail followed Pencil Pine Creek.

Out into the open

The rainforest track starts a gradual climb as you leave the creek behind. Then the landscape opens up revealing low alpine scrub.

We really enjoyed this section of the track, because of the snow, and the contrasting vegetation. It was an easy stretch of the walk. So it was easy to daydream, take photos and enjoy walking.

Then in an out of scrub and forest

Some parts of the track were overgrown by scrub — hence the term scrub-bashing comes to mind. The expansive snow drifts were soon exchanged for scrubby bush then forest once more.

As the track wound back towards Pencil Pine Creek, we could see deep down into the ravine. In this short video, I attempt to give you an idea of depth of the ravine. The wind was ripping and I couldn’t keep the snow flakes off my camera lens.

Lunch in the forest

We felt we had walked far enough to take a break. And this scenic area of forest seemed a good place to stop for a cup of hot tea and a piece of Graham’s 70th birthday cake. Little did we suspect that the walk so far had been a walk in the park compared to what was to follow!

Scrambling around the escarpment

A short distance past our lunch stop, there was a land slip in the forest. So we needed to abandon the marked track to climb over and under trees while trying not to slip down into the ravine. This may have seemed scary enough, but it actually got worse!

We had lost sight of the pink markers, just as I looked up over my shoulder to see markers several metres above my head over a rock face.

Please don’t tell me that is the track. Graham: It is. So this is where we turn round and head back? No said Graham We can do this!

After scrambling up the first rock ledge, I stopped to take a photo. I braced myself against the escarpment to take my camera out of its bag. Then I decided to take a short video in order to show you the depth of the ravine. But the two-dimensional video doesn’t really do it justice. It was easy to get dizzy looking down!

But it got worse before it got better

You may have noticed the overgrown bush Graham was pushing through? Well on one side prickly bushes such as Richea scoparia were pushing out and on the other side of the very narrow track, there was a ravine. I was using three points of contact to scramble up the rocks-holding on to rock crevices and tree roots.

On at least two occasions my bottom became the fourth point of contact. If you have read my previous Blogs, you may recall that my right knee was de-gloved in a bicycle accident. So I have little strength in this knee. Hence my need to haul myself up on to my bottom! My adrenalin/scared meter was close to maxing out!

I was too focused on survival to take photos.

The alpine plateau

After about 1 km of rock scrambling it was a relief to be up on the alpine plateau.

Up on the plateau, there were few trees – just button grass.

Button grass torture

If you have ever had the pleasure of walking through button grass, you will understand the heading for this paragraph! The Pencil Pine track now weaves its way downhill through endless button grass. So we were treated to ankle-deep water and shoe-sucking mud. And don’t forget the ever present threat of unseen black holes waiting to break an ankle.

Coming down off the plateau, it was often difficult to find the track markers. It was too easy to start following animal trails as the actual track weaves in and out of alpine bush.

Junction of the Speeler and King Billy Tracks.

Finally the Pencil Pine track finishes at the junction of the Speeler and King Billy tracks. In this photo you can see the ice, snow and slushy mud on the Pencil Pine track.

Two-to-three hours for the Pencil Pine circuit is a misleading underestimate! We got to this junction after about four hours.

We followed the King Billy track to the Cradle Mountain lodge. Once here you can either head along the road back to the Ranger Station car park, or take the Enchanted Walk back. The Enchanted Walk is a much more enjoyable route. Once this is done, cross the road to return to the car park (or bus stop) at the Interpretation Centre!

In Summary

The Pencil Pine track has all the elements of a classic grade 4 walk in Tasmania! Namely, slippery tree roots, scary ravines, slippery rock scrambles, button grass, water features and sections where the track markers can’t be found. Of course, for those in the know, water features is code for: creek and waterfall crossings, and ankle-deep shoe-sucking mud. Why do we do this? Well, Graham and I won’t be lining up to repeat the Pencil Pine track walk!

Hint: It really is best to start this walk from off the Enchanted Walk, because scrambling down the escarpment looking into the ravine would be far too scary!

If you are interested in learning about other walks in Tasmania, or staying with us at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, you might enjoy reading our Blog. Of course, you may like to subscribe so you can receive our latest published articles, too!

The Crater Lake Circuit

This time we are off to Cradle Mountain for some short walks. We enjoyed our getaway to Freycinet so much, that we got away again! We took advantage of Tasmania’s border restrictions and the RACT member’s 30% discount at Cradle Mountain Hotel. So off we drove to Cradle Mountain on the 10th August, just a few days after a dumping of snow.

Cradle Mountain Hotel

This medium-sized hotel with 61 rooms just off Cradle Mountain Road sits on a large block of natural alpine scrub. We found the rooms, spacious, quiet and comfortable. Because of COVID restrictions the hotel was less than half-booked. So I am guessing it could get noisy down the hallway outside the rooms when it is busier, or if the guests in surrounding rooms are noisy. However, we enjoyed our stay so much that we have stayed three times since August!

The boardwalks were very slippery. I had to cling on to the handrails to walk this section near the Interpretation Centre (Pencil pines walk, see below).

Convenient location

Cradle Mountain Hotel is on the right-hand-side of Cradle Mountain Road, just 2 km from Leary’s Corner (the turnoff to Cradle Mountain). It is then 2 km to the Visitor Centre and a further 2 km to the Interpretation Centre and Ranger Station. Hence the hotel is within easy distance of all the Cradle Mountain short walks.

Accessing the Cradle Mountain short walks

Providing you have a National Parks Pass for your car, you can drive as far as the Ranger Station (Interpretation Centre). However, while there is plenty of car-parking at the new Visitor Centre, parking is limited at the Rangers Station. During most normal times (i.e. non COVID border restrictions) it is safe to assume that you would not get a car park at the Interpretation Centre!

The visitor buses

For accessing all the short walks starting at either Ronny’s Creek or Dove Lake, we recommend the visitor buses. Ronny’s Creek is about 8 km from the Interpretation Centre and Dove Lake is about 11 km. You are not permitted to drive past the Interpretation Centre while the shuttle buses are on the road. So you can only drive to Ronny’s Creek or Dove Lake before 09:00 or after 17:00. There is limited car-parking space at Ronny’s Creek and effectively no car parking space near Dove Lake. The latter is due to building construction happening at the site (August 2020).

The buses depart every 20 minutes from the Visitor Centre between ~09:10 and 16:00. They drop-off and pick-up passengers at locations accessing walking tracks, including the Cradle Valley boardwalk, Ronny’s Creek and Dove Lake. The last bus from Dove Lake departs at about 16:20.

You will need to collect your bus ticket at the Visitor Centre. If you have a current National Parks Pass, the ticket is free. Otherwise, I think you will pay about $25.50 for an all-day bus ticket and National Parks Pass. The service uses medium-sized Volvo buses. They are air-conditioned electric hybrid buses. We found the service very convenient and comfortable.

Pencil pines falls & rainforest walk

After checking-in to our hotel, we explored the new Visitor Centre then drove to the Interpretation Centre. Here we read the displays and watched the spectacular video describing the geography of the region. We walked the Pencil Pines Falls and rainforest boardwalk. This walk is suitable for wheelchairs and would normally be an easy stroll. However, the thick glassy ice on the boardwalk added an additional level of difficulty. I really didn’t like walking on ice!

Because of the recent snow falls, other short walks near the Interpretation Centre were closed–including Kynvet Falls, Dove Canyon circuit and Cradle Valley boardwalk.

The Crater Lake Circuit

The next day the icy conditions had eased a little, so we decided on walking the Crater Lake circuit. This is described by the Cradle Mountain Day Walks Map and Notes as 2-3 hour grade 3 walk. So people or all ages and fitness levels who have some bushwalking experience should have no problems completing this walk.

We parked our car at the Visitor Centre then rode in the shuttle bus to Ronny’s Creek. Then at ~9:30 we set out along the boardwalk with about ten other people. Just past the Ronny’s Creek footbridge at an intersection with the Overland track (to Crater Lake), we chose the left-hand track to Lake Lilla. So we parted ways with the other small groups of walkers.

Lake Lilla track

It was a near perfect day for walking. No wind and the sun was shining. There were a few patches of ice, but the gravelly track was easy to walk. So the fresh bitey air and alpine scenery made this a most pleasant walk.

At Lake Lilla we met up with a young couple who had walked over from Dove Lake. This is an easier and shorter track which becomes part of an interesting circuit track to Marion’s Lookout. Perhaps we will save this walk for our next visit.

Wombat Pool track

From Lake Lilla the track starts to climb. But the short climb was not the worrying bit. It was the thick slabs of ice on the wooden boardwalk steps that was most concerning. So our walking pace slowed with each foot deliberately placed to prevent skidding and falling. Fortunately it was just a short section of the track that was still in shadow (and ice).We then walked down the hill to the Wombat Pool.

Despite the full sun there was still large pieces of ice floating in the pool. So we weren’t tempted to go for a swim! Biscuits with cheese and a hot cup of tea made a relaxing lunch break. Meanwhile, two inquisitive Currawongs sat in the nearby tree watching every mouthful.

Then after lunch we climbed the track up to Wombat Peak. Here we met up with some people who had started the walk with us at the beginning of the day. One lady told me how she had skidded on her bottom on some sections of the track near Crater Lake, rather than risk sliding over on the ice. Now, they had my attention because I was terrified!

Crater Lake

And, sure enough the track became increasingly icy as we walked down hill towards Crater lake. This part of our walk was slow and torturous. But somehow, I managed to slip and slide my way along the track while still standing up and without mishap or the need to get down on my bottom…

Graham wasn’t so lucky, because he went for a slide, falling on his back. But fortunately his pack slowed him down so he didn’t disappear down over the rocks into the lake!

Then a large man carrying an enormous pack went striding past us! Crunch! Crunch! Crunch! How did he do that without sliding?

Well, all was revealed when we caught up with him again near Crater Falls. He had chains fitted to his walking boots! Turns out he had just spent three days camping up near Barn Bluff. He was a keen photographer. OK. We resolved to investigate the boot chains further, when we got home.

Call it a day!

At the start of the day we intended taking the shuttle bus to Dove Lake in the afternoon because we wanted to wander around the Lake. But we were stuffed! An easy walk that would normally take two to three hours had taken us four hours. So we headed back to the warm Hotel for a hot shower and an evening meal.

The next day, when we were back at home we made some phone calls about the boot chains. And we ended up buying two pairs of Edelrid micro spikes snow chains for our boots from Paddy Pallin in Launceston. We were soon to discover, on our next walk, these are a very useful piece of bushwalking kit.

If you are interested in learning about other walks in Tasmania, or staying with us at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, you might enjoy reading our Blog.

During the April 2016 school holidays Graham, James and I took time away from Tin Dragon Cottages to walk the Three Capes Track. After a bicycle accident (serious knee re-arrangement) in 2015 I needed a goal to get up and about again, and this was it! But like all resolutions Graham and I fell short of our fitness goal. Life always seems to get in the way of all good resolutions, doesn’t it?

Did I mention that I was lucky to be the winner of the Three Capes Track Facebook promotion? We were reimbursed for two tickets ($792)!

Three Capes Track : Day One

After checking-out of the nearby Stuarts Bay Lodge we were the first to arrive at the Three Capes check-in counter in the Port Arthur visitor centre. In fact we arrived before the visitor centre had even opened. We must have been keen; or worried about getting a good parking spot for our vehicle in the Port Arthur long-term parking area. No worries–first there too! We checked-in, left our backpacks at the desk, then wandered aimlessly around the site. Great day for sightseeing.

We turned up at the boat ramp too early–first again–then waited nervously. Did we really believe we could lump those backpacks for four days? Hey! those people over there look like three capers. People with backpacks started arriving. Lots of them (school holiday). The boats left in two shifts (11:30 and 14:00) with ~20 people on each boat.

Boat ride to Denmans Cove

The catamaran ride was exhilarating. James loved the speed of full-throttle. (So did I!) We sailed close to incredible cliffs. New Zealand and Australian (white-face) albatrosses landed then took off from the waves. High up on the rock face we saw two sea eagle nests.

Shags were roosting on lower rock ledges (rather than usual ledges much higher up). Apparently they moved when the sea eagle chicks fledged, because the young eagles were picking off the shag chicks.

We sailed near Tasman Island, then landed at Denmans Cove. It was an easy landing. This is not always the case. In fact if the sea is too rough a helicopter is used to transport walkers to the start of the track.

Our first lunch was tuna and crackers with a snack pack of dried fruit, nuts and chocolate. It had been cold on the catamaran, so a cup of hot tea was welcome. By the way this was the only occasion we used our camp-cooker (Trangia), so this is a piece of kit you can leave at home. We were the last to leave the beach at 13:00.

Short walk to the Surveyors Cabin

At around 23deg C we soon became hot and the layers started coming off. We enjoyed stopping at a small inlet (Surveyor’s Cove) where previous sojourners had erected stone cairns. Apparently this is where boats bring in supplies for the Surveyor’s Hut. Here we met two ladies–friends travelling together. These two women, each with their own families, were school friends meeting up for an annual adventure. Go girls!

The walking was easy till the first set of stone steps, then the steady uphill climb became tiring. The packs (15kg-mine, 10kg-James and 18kg-Graham) started digging into our backs and squashing our toes.

James spat the dummy. He started dragging his feet and falling behind. The four km walk was becoming very tedious!

Finally, Graham left his pack on the track and went back for James. I resolved to reach the hut, leave my pack then return to assist Graham. I arrived at Surveyor’s Hut at 15:30. Thankfully by the time I found our room and toilet, Graham and James arrived. They were the last to arrive.

At each new hut, the ranger introduced her/himself and spoke to us about the region. For example: some not-so-scary tales of snakes; history of the area; what to expect the next day…

About the huts…

The toilet block

My first two impressions of the Surveyors Hut were 1) the toilet block is a long walk from the accommodation; and 2) thank heavens the toilet was a long way from the accommodation! Because the smell was strong and unpleasant. Two sinks with cold water taps and soap were provided outside the long-drop dry toilets. There was plenty of toilet paper and no shower. Under the toilet block you can see “pods”. This is the crap that the helicopters need to take away. By April 2016 there had been 4000 people walk the track, so I guess the pods were full.

Sleeping quarters

Bonus! As prize recipients, each ranger allocated us our own four-bunk room at the quietest end of the bunk house. Individual rooms (four to six beds) were arranged as interconnecting modules. The hut easily accommodated our 41 walkers. Air flow was through timber slats in interior walls and external doors. Fixed glass windows slanted outwards to prevent collision with birds and bats. No curtains, so it is best to wait till dark before changing as there was little privacy. The foam mattresses have a vinyl cover. I found my bed very comfortable, provided I didn’t sit up too quickly and hit my head on the upper deck. (James found this highly amusing)

A feature of each hut was the beautifully constructed out door areas, with decks positioned to allow the best views. Comfortable chairs and yoga mats were great for taking in the views and socialising. Some intrepid walkers even managed to stow a bottle or two of wine to enjoy while watching the sun go down!

Well equipped kitchens (two in each cook house) were separated from the bunk rooms. Plenty of benches, gas cookers, pots, pans and utensils for everyone. Provided care was taken to conserve water and gas, there was plenty of these too.

Kitchens and meals

On the first night we dined on three Army-style retort meals (beef vindaloo x2 and beef and gravy) heated in a saucepan of hot water; with a hot chocolate drink and pita bread. This was surprisingly good and very easy to prepare. I watched others busy chopping vegetables, frying, boiling, then cleaning saucepans and piles of dishes, while we ate out of the retort pouches. Generally there was little interaction between the small travelling groups at meal time.

While a container was provided for disposing of food scraps, we had to carry out all other rubbish. The retort empty pouches were easy to squash, then carry in a clip-lock bag.

Solar power lit up the cook house, while sunset was lights-out in the bunk house. Some people stayed up late chatting, drinking, playing cards/board games or reading books. James kicked a ball with a few teenagers, while Graham and I fell onto our beds early on the first night.

Three Capes Track: Day Two

For Graham and I this was the hardest day. Partly because James offloaded all his gear to us and partly because our sore muscles were settling-in. I gained all James’s food items; so I carried an extra 5kg. Of course this meant that James had no food with him and just 1L of water.

We had instant rolled oats (individual flavoured sachets) made with UHT milk and a big mug of tea for breakfast. (Yes. Graham had carried a 1L UHT milk for the day.)

James went his own way

After our hut ranger took our photo, James bolted off down the track without food, but with a very light pack.

Graham and I were left to pack up and set off at a leisurely 09:00. We didn’t meet up with James till the end of the day. James had teamed up with three-teenage members of another family. Apparently they took pity on him and shared a couple of chocolate bars with him during the day.

11 Km to Munro hut

It was cool, with a light breeze and about 20deg C as we set out on day 2. It was an easy start through low coastal heath and scrubby eucalypt forest filled with bird song. We were rewarded with views out over Port Arthur early in the day.

Then the track started to climb. My (now much heavier) pack made the stone staircases feel endless. But we were rewarded with amazing coastal views. We met up with a group for morning tea: hot coffee made with condensed milk and Anzac biscuits–yum! Handy hint: Take a small (500ml) thermos of boiling water per person for making hot drinks and soup. But don’t take the Trangia on this walk.

We continued the uphill climb, being rewarded at intervals by spectacular views. At midday we met up with a group celebrating a birthday. We sat, perched on rocks, singing ‘happy birthday’ enjoying the most awesome view of the day. Namely, views across sparkling Crescent Bay and beyond to Cape Raoul.

Then there were more stone steps But this time we were rewarded with the cool dappled shade of the cloud forest. This was my favourite section of track–shifting shadows, bird song, tortured low scrubby trees, orchids on the side of the track. We stopped on a shaded section of boardwalk to have our lunch: instant soup, cheese, banana bread and hot coffee. We finished our thermos of hot water.

My legs and thighs were hurting and my legs felt wobbly as we arrived at Munro Hut at about 15:30. We were immediately greeted by James, who had been there for hours! He made us a cup of Sasafras tea from leaves he had collected on the track.

Munro hut

Then a real treat–a cold bush shower! Joining the line-up on the deck waiting for the shower was an enjoyable social event. Graham had collapsed on his bed, so he missed all the tall tales and dad-style jokes. He showered later, in the half-dark.

The real magic at Munro Hut is the view. The hut sits high over Munro Bight. It was pure joy to sip on a hot chocolate while watching the light fade over the water.

Dinner was a retort meal with mashed potato, tinned fruit with jelly and a cup of hot chocolate each. Really quite good. For the rest of the evening, James had found a good-natured and willing victim to play chess. James won, of course.

With throbbing knee (yes, that knee) and shins; sore shoulder and back muscles, I went to bed feeling fearful about the longer walk ahead the next day.

However, the clean fresh air of the night wove its magic and I woke up re-invigorated. My sore muscles forgotten and no throbbing arthritic joints. I even joined a group of eager photographers at first light in an attempt to get the iconic sunrise-over-the-water photo. But gathering clouds shrouded the sun. Or was I just too late to capture the shot?

Three Capes Track: Day 3

The official track handbook refers to day three as drama and adrenalin. A day of dizzying heights, when you know your’re truly alive. The views across the water and the majesty of the sheer dolerite cliffs are memories for a life time. So, far-too many photos could never be enough on day three!

I have just two disappointments for day three: Firstly, we didn’t share the walk with James and secondly, Graham and I didn’t sit together on the tip of The Blade.

James left ahead of us, preferring the pace and company of a young family. Strange, I felt that we were walking at a good pace, yet other groups kept passing us–even after we caught up with them. Perhaps it is group dynamics to be ‘competitive’ out on the track; or are we much older than we admit?

Only day packs needed

On day 3 our load was made easy by leaving our heavy packs at Munro Hut and only carrying day packs and water. Although this was the longest day, the walk was easy. There were only a few stone staircases. we walked mostly along board walks with gradual elevations. There were beautifully crafted seats and natural clearings for tea breaks, amazing views and changing landscapes of eucalypt forest, tea tree and heath.

It was a day for walking slowly, breathing deeply and enjoying scenery, scents and sounds…and being passed by other groups walking at a more cracking pace!

The art works

Adding to the interest of the track experience were the art works, each telling a story (described in the official handbook).

Sex on the Cape. You can see The Blade in the far right of this photo. This seat resembling a native flower, caught Graham’s imagination!

Spectacular dolerite rock formations

Only a few people can sit together on the summit of the Blade. Because a group was already there (eating lunch) Graham and I had a quick look then returned to Seal Spa for our lunch. Hoping to meet up with James, we headed back without returning to the summit. Note: It was annoying that one group sat on the narrow Blade preventing other walkers from enjoying the experience.

Last stretch to Retakunna hut

Why does the home stretch seem to go on for ever? After picking up our heavy packs from Munro Hut the track to Retakunna Hut seemed endless.

On the boardwalk we met three young women who were heading out to Cape Pillar on a day walk from Fortescue Bay. They weren’t the first (free-style) walkers we had met along the way. We had also met backpackers on previous days who had been camping along the track. There are some designated camping areas along the new Three Capes Track and I saw a rain-water tank at one site. So if you don’t wish to pay for the huts, or you prefer to walk on your own, then there is an alternative.

Socialising on the track

We kept our freeze-dried Back Country Cuisine meals for the last night at Retakunna. It was not a memorable or very enjoyable experience. We won’t buy these again. However, it was pleasing to enjoy our last meal with a more social-group of people. By now people were more engaged with each other. We had some laughs with two other couples. James enjoyed playing chess each night with a man who had a strong Scottish accent.

So what was our walking group like? There were three family groups with children. One brave couple had three children–the oldest about 12yrs and youngest about 7yrs. There might have been just one couple older than Graham and me. There were two couples travelling together, two (school) friends, several young couples (early 20’s?) and one older man walking alone.

James nick-named the family in the room next to us the Bruce Willis family. This is because they appeared very regimented. Each morning their Dad reminded the boys; now remember your training today boys! as they were doing their stretching exercises.

We could hear Mr Willis barking loud instructions to his sons and wife in the dark of the early mornings. I imagine they were the first to leave each day and first to arrive at each hut. They didn’t make eye contact with us. We didn’t see them on the track, we didn’t see them eat. We felt a little sorry for the two boys.

Three Capes Track: Day Four

It was a glorious full moon rising as the clouds came in and the rain came down on our last night. I slept soundly, waking occasionally as the tempo of the rain increased.

Next morning we made an executive decision to get going early. The Bruce Willis family had already left, of course! In fact we were about the last to leave despite our efforts.

Short cut to Fortescue Bay

Then we made another executive decision to deviate from the official Three Capes Track and head back to Fortescue Bay on the old trail. So we didn’t see Cape Hauy. But I don’t think anyone else saw much of the Cape either on that very wet rainy day.

The old trail was in good condition and although it didn’t have the height or drama of the new Cape track, I enjoyed the soft outline of eucalypt, coastal heath and grasses in the mist and rain. And I enjoyed a trail without steps and climbing. We crossed paths with two rangers who were walking to Retakunna. This is the main track into the hut for the Ranger staff.

Cold and wet at Fortescue Bay

We arrived at Fortescue Bay after about three hours of walking. This was several hours before the scheduled bus departure and ahead of the other Three Capes walkers. The tourist facilities here were far from luxurious! There was only one wet leaky, smelly toilet and nowhere to sit out of the rain. We stood against an electric BBQ huddled under the only lean-to roof. Our raincoats were dripping and our clothes damp and cold.

But then just as we were contemplating hours of standing in the freezing rain, a young Eurpoean tourist came striding off the Cape Hauy track. She had just completed a walk out to the Cape, and more importantly, had a car parked near our BBQ shelter. This lovely young lady drove Graham back to Port Arthur to collect our car! So within an hour Graham had returned with our car.

Then James and I had one of those golden moments of glee, when the Bruce Willis family emerged off the Cape track just as we were getting into our car to drive away! The look on Bruce Willis’s face was worth bottling.

Fish and chips reward

By shear chance we met up again with the young European lady, at a cafe. We were enjoying a delicious meal of hot fish and chips. Meanwhile, back at Fortescue Bay the rest of the Three Capers were still standing in the rain waiting for the bus. I didn’t regret missing out on the final Cape. We exchanged contact details with the young lady and invited her to stay with us and some weeks later she stayed a night with us at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages.

We spent two days in Hobart before returning to Tin Dragon Trail Cottages. Here we stayed at the Black Buffalo Hotel in Federal St, North Hobart. It is good value (around $110 for the three of us, 2016) surprisingly quiet, comfortable, provides great meals and is close to Hobart CBD. One piece of advice is to book directly over the phone rather than on-line with Wotif or any of the other on-line distributors. Even if the on-line calendar looks sold-out, give the hotel a phone call.

If you wish to learn more about our tourist accommodation in north east Tasmania, please visit our web site: Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, facebook or instagram pages. We look forward to hosting your next stay in Tasmania!

We celebrated Graham’s 70th birthday with a stay at Freycinet Lodge. And of course we took the opportunity to enjoy some day walks in the Freycinet National Park. Our short walks included Cape Tourville lighthouse, Sleepy Bay, Wineglass Bay and Hazards Beach. We hope this Blog will help you plan your next visit to the National Park!

Cape Tourville & Sleepy Bay

The weather was wild when we arrived. The wind was gusting and the rain was stinging. But Tassie is beautiful in all weather!

Cape Tourville lighthouse

After checking-in to our accommodation, we decided to drive to Cape Tourville. I guess it’s not surprising that we were the only people there. If COVID-restrictions weren’t keeping people away, then the icy rain most likely was.

This is Graham doing his explorer of the antarctic impersonation. We were nearly blown off the path as we walked to the light house! The lens on my camera fogged up, and I couldn’t photoshop all the rain droplets of the images, so these are the only images I could post.

Sleepy Bay

Graham saw two seals playing in the waves.

Our umbrellas were almost turned inside-out and our coats were dripping wet, but this was an enjoyable start to our Freycinet National Park getaway. We were mesmerised by the waves crashing onto the rocks. So here is a short video of the waves and crackling rain.

Hazards Beach walk

After a cosy evening of reading, followed by a luxurious deep sleep, then a hot breakfast we drove a short distance along Freycinet Drive to the National Park visitor car park.

I had walked the Hazards Beach trail about 25 years ago. Graham had also completed a multi-day walk on the peninsular track many years ago. But our memories of the beauty of the beaches, mountains and rugged granite outcrops had faded.

However, I still had a vague memory about the track from Hazards Beach back to the car park being difficult. My memory was of rocky slopes and awful afternoon heat – it was January when I did last did this walk!

Unfortunately there was still some currency in my memory. So having completed this walk again now, I’m thinking it might have been more enjoyable to walk back, past Wineglass Bay to the car park. That is, cut out the Hazards Beach-to-car-park section of the walk.

One aspect of exploring Freycinet National Park while Tasmania is closed-off from Australia’s other Island and overseas countries, is the absence of crowds! We met less than half-a-dozen other small groups on the track.

Unlike last year when we made a spur-of-the-moment decision to drive to Freycinet, walk to the Wineglass Bay Lookout and have an evening meal in Bicheno. Well, we managed the dinner part. We drove to the Freycinet car park and had to keep driving, because the car park was full! There were people everywhere.

The following video provides a visual description of the 11.5 km Hazards Beach walk at Freycinet National Park in Tasmania.

If you are interested in other iconic (and lesser-known) walks in Tasmania, you might like to take a look at our Off the Beaten Track blog.

Last week we were thrilled to see a Tesla charging up with our EV charger for the first time (September 2020). You may recall that we installed two EV chargers late last year.

“Sandy” and Sue are the proud owners of the Tesla Model 3. Although they are both long-term residents of Tasmania, this was their first road trip to our region! Apparently they had decided to get into the spirit of the buy something Tasmanian campaign, and Sandy found us through the Tasmanian plug-share web site. So they drove out from their home on the Tamar to explore Scottsdale and Branxholm.

Charging the Tesla with 100% renewable power

While the Tesla was charging up, Graham gave Sandy and Sue a tour of our renewable energy power scheme. By using both micro-hydro power and solar PV, Tin Dragon Cottages is fully self-sufficient for electricity. However, our property is not off-grid, because we export excess power into the grid! This makes us carbon-positive.

Then a second Tesla arrives!

We must be on a roll! The owners of this Tesla Model X stayed with us this week. Not only did they get their re-charge for free, but they were some of the lucky Tasmanians who had bagged an accommodation voucher!

So there really has never been a better time to be out exploring Tasmania. #Makeyourselfathome

If you own a Tesla EV (lucky you!) you can find Tin Dragon Cottages on the Tesla Destination Charger App. We would love to see you here!

The Don Mine Tin Company operated from 1880 and the Duco Tin Mine from 1919. The rain forest has almost totally reclaimed the small workings now. But you will enjoy the short walk and the glow worms!

How to find the Don Mine in North East Tasmania

On our most recent visit to the Don mine walk (Sept 2020), the sign on the tree had fallen off, but the blaze can still be seen.

On the opposite side of the road to the  start of the Don mine circuit walk you can wander down an old road to an abandoned and rotting wooden bridge. Don’t attempt to cross it! However the scenery will reward you if you can shimmy down to Crystal Creek. You may need to wander a little upstream to find a more suitable place to access the creek, because the bank near the bridge is very steep!

How to find the Duco Adit

The walk from the Don mine takes you past old mining relics including an abandoned boiler. To complete the walk you will need to cross the Crystal Creek. But during periods of high rain fall you might find the rock-hopping difficult. So you might like to access the Duco adit via a short walk from the Lottah Road!

As you approach Crystal Creek on Lottah Road, slow down to look for a large tree with a small yellow blaze. On the opposite side of the road you will find a short walk in to the Duco Adit.

Care for the wild life!

This small damp cave is remarkable for its cave-life. If you are lucky you should see Glow worms and Tasmanian cave spiders. It is important that you don’t allow more than one or two people into the cave together, so you don’t disturb the ecology!

Glow worms

Of course glow worms aren’t actually worms, but the larvae of a type of gnat. Look carefully to see their long sticky threads hanging down. There are very few accessible places to view these creatures. So we ask you to be very careful not to disturb them.

Tasmanian cave spiders

Tasmanian cave spiders are the last of an old Gondwanan lineage of spiders. They still retain the primitive pattern of four abdominal breathing organs, called book lungs–seen as four light patches on the underside of the abdomen. Neil Gaiman and the Bookend Trust filmed a fascinating documentary featuring these pre-historic creatures.

In 2018 we hosted Luke O’Brien, photographer. You can still see his photos of the Duco on his Blog. Can you see the spider in his photo, above?

If you are interested in Tasmanian tin-mining heritage you might also like to visit the old Anchor stampers next time you visit Tin Dragon Cottages.

The Anchor mine and its stampers have had a checkered history from opening in 1880 to finally closing in 1996. We encourage you to visit this interesting site and to read about the mine’s history.

How to find the Anchor stampers in Tasmania

Easy 30 min return walk to the Anchor stampers

The heritage stampers (1930)

The battery at this site consists of 2 sets of 10-head stamps, which were relocated from Tasmania’s west coast in the 1930’s. A Gardener diesel powered the stampers motor till the mine closure in 1950.

Brief history of the Anchor Tin Mine in Tasmania

Following the discovery of alluvial tin in the Groom River during 1880, Arthur Hodge and James Robinson worked the original Anchor leases on “tribute”. The tribute system involved a self-employed miner agreeing to share the profits of his labour with a mine manager in return for the use of the mine property.

The Anchor Mine Mining Co NL was floated on the Hobart stock exchange in September 1882. The Anchor Mining Company used the capital raised from the float to replace the alluvial mining with an open-cut lode mine. The company opened two faces into the steep hillside at the site. In addition they erected a crushing and concentrating plant and installed the famous water wheel. However the company soon closed and sold the mine only two years later.

Tasmania’s largest waterwheel drove the original Anchor stampers

The waterwheel (the largest in Tasmania) could power a 40-head stamper battery and was an estimated 20m across, 1.34m wide and 100 tonnes. Water to drive the wheel was diverted from many streams and water races. In fact ten tonnes of water was required for just one revolution of the wheel. However, an inadequate supply of water meant that only about 30 of the 40 stampers could be used.

Most lode tin mines had a crushing battery to reduce the ore to fine particles ready for further extraction treatment. In the 1880’s the Anchor Mine in Tasmania had an enormous crushing battery of 100 stamps.

This type of crushing machinery was called a gravity stamp, because the engine lifted a series of heavy iron rods then let them drop onto the ore in the mortar box. So gravity did the work of crushing the stone. When the stone particles were small enough they splashed out through a screen and went to a shaking table known as a Wilfley table. The Anchor stampers were not very efficient, but were popular in the Tasmanian bush because they were simple, strong and easy to maintain.

The Anchor mine sold then re-sold…

There were many further attempts to re-open the mine, with the final chapter in January 1989 when the New Zealand based Spectrum Resources re-opened the mine. But after only two years of operation and expenditure of around $7 million the Company closed the mine again.

Then in 1994 Mancala Pty Ltd acquired the mine. They produced tin till 1996.

Graham and I first saw the Anchor mine (and old stampers) in 1997–one year after Mancala turned off the plant. The power lines were still live at the mine site. The extraction plant looked like the switch had just been flicked off because there were rocks still on the conveyer belt and half-filled bags of tin sitting abandoned. Workers had even left their jackets behind.

Final close-down of the Anchor Mine

In 2007 after heavy rain a dam built for the mine collapsed and washed away a large section of the visitor walking track. The wash-out was spectacular and indicated the level of force behind the escaping water! (We suspect it may have been more than rain fall that caused the dam wall wash-out…).

Then after several years, Forestry Tasmania constructed a new walking track, car park and Anchor stampers viewing platform. The mining company removed all the plant equipment from the new mine site and blocked the entrances to the mines.

See a working stamper in Beaconsfield

The Grub Shaft mine museum in Beaconsfield has a working display of an old water wheel and stamper battery, which was reconstructed from parts obtained in the Blue Tiers.

Off the beaten track in North East Tasmania

Please read our Blog pages to learn about other interesting places to visit in our region!