Flinders Island is all about clear ocean water, deserted beaches, unique rock formations and wind! And, the best way to explore this unique island, is in a van. So, for two weeks in March – April this year, we explored the island in our old Sprinter van.
How to get your van to Flinders Island
It seems strange to me (now) that we have wanted to visit Flinders Island literally for decades! But time and cost were hurdles. For example, in 2024, to fly-drive and stay on Flinders Island can cost around $5-600 per person for airfares and from $300 per day for accommodation and a hire car. Sailing with the Matthew Flinders is an economical option, but there is only one sailing per week and it is dependent on weather and tides. So, this is problematic if you are on a strict timeline. For example, if you need to be back at work on time!
But, this year, all hurdles were knocked out of the way! Our son is now old enough to look after Tin Dragon Cottages (time pressure removed), and our Sprinter van fit-out is almost complete (cost pressure decreased). With the last of the warmer weather closing in on us, we booked our van on the Matthew Flinders barge for a two-week stay on Flinders Island.
Sailing on the Matthew Flinders IV to Flinders Island
All up the return sail for our Mercedes Sprinter (5.9 m) van and ourselves (Graham, Christine and Fraser farm dog) was $1245 in March 2024. Although they have a good web page, I still recommend phoning or visiting the office in Bridport before making your reservation. The pdf schedules may not always be completely up-to-date.
The sailing experience
The Matthew Flinders IV has a guest lounge with toilets, a TV and tea/coffee making supplies with an electric jug and small microwave oven. So, you can make a snack meal and a hot drink. However, we chose to stay in our van for the eight-hour overnight crossing. The guest lounge seats don’t recline BTW.
We settled into our bed. Fraser farm dog behaved well and appeared to sleep for most of the trip. Graham snored most of the way. So, I was left to enjoy the rolling and pitching motion of the ship and the occassional waves breaking over the top of our van. But, the wet deck and the ship motion coupled with the steep stairs up to the toilets made for a hazardous journey. So, I had to be inventive when the inevitable call-of-nature made me uncomfortable! We arrived in Lady Barron at 03:00, then drove the short distance to Yellow Beach.
Driving the length and breadth of Flinders Island
Camping at Yellow Beach near Lady Barron on Flinders Island
Yellow Beach camp ground off Potboil Road is described as being suitable for campervans and 10-15 vehicles, with facilites including a shower. Actually, this is not a campground and there is no shower. However, it is a well-maintained day-use only picnic area right on the beach and a great asset for local community gatherings. There are electric bar-be-ques, picnic tables (including an under cover area), toilets and a rain-water tank.
If you are looking for a shower there is one at the Lady Barron Pier and tennis court car park.
I’m guessing Yellow Beach is a regular stop-over area for vans driving on/off the Matthew Flinders. On the morning we were there, there were three campervans parked on the side of the narrow road next to the picnic area. So, the campground was full!
After a brief sleep and breakfast, we got talking with a couple from Bridport who were heading back on the barge after one-month camping on the island. We asked for their recommendations:
“Oh, I probably shouldn’t tell you this, but (power) pole 41 on West End Road is a great location…”
Camping on Tanners Bay, West End Road, Flinders Island
We took his advice. After leaving Yellow Beach we drove through Lady Barron to Whitemark (~25 mins), then continued on Palana Road beyond the sealed road to the West End road left-hand turn-off. We then bumped our way along the badly corrugated gravel road, counting power poles till we saw a track on the left-hand side, just before pole number 41. Drive time was about 75 mins.
The road in to the beach was a little challenging, but being able to park right next to the beach was a bonus! There were no other campers in sight, so we had our second skinny dip for the day. Even Fraser came in with us!
Then the wind started to pick up.
The next morning we woke to strong wind rocking the van, white caps and churned-up sea grass. There were intermittent blasts of rain throughout the day. No swimming today. But we caught up on extra sleep and I read my first novel for the holiday.
The next morning the wind had eased, but it was cloudy and cold. So we packed up and headed north then east to North East River hoping to escape the wind.
North East River
Palana road up to the right-hand turn-off (East) to North East River was in good condition, but then the road deteriorated into bad corrugations. The road tracks alongside the river and lagoon where we had glimpses of swans and other birdlife. There were numerous 4WD tracks off onto private camps and shacks along the river. This is obviously a popular location for boating, fishing, bird-watching and hunting.
We drove to the end of the road, where there is a turning circle, toilets and picnic table. It was blowing a gale from the east and the more exposed beach, although beautiful, looked dangerous. I imagine there could be strong undertows. For more information about this area read the Furneaux geotrail web site.
We turned back to look for the campsite. There was a short track into the campsite, indicated by Parks & Wildlife signage. The campsite is an open area, lacking privacy and shade for campers and without facilities. In late March it was dry and dusty with black soil and no views. There was a long walk back to the toilets and a shorter walk to a rocky shoreline.
Having been spoilt by our recent campsite, we didn’t feel good about staying here. So we headed back to Palana Road and further north to Palana.
Palana on Flinders Island
At the end of the awfully corrugated road was a small fishing village with no public facilities or camp sites for vans. There were some very smart houses perched on a cliff overlooking a picturescue sweep of beach and signs of new land sub-divisions being established. This would be a luxury getaway destination, but was not suitable for overnight vans.
We turned south, then detoured west to visit Killiecrankie.
Killiecrankie settlement
Killiecrankie is a small fishing village beside another impossibly beautiful beach. It has a cleared area where more than 10 boat trailers with boats were parked. A public picnic area with under-cover electric bar-be-ques and well-maintained toilets is right on the beach front. The site is for day-use only and camping is not permitted here.
We noticed a small rough sign indicating a private campsite, but it didn’t look promising, so we kept driving.
The public picnic areas on Flinders Island are really exceptional!
I should make mention here about how good the public facilities on Flinders Island are. The bar-be-ques and hybrid-flush toilets are all well maintained – with paper and hand soap, and cleaning gear for the bar-be-ques. The gardens are neat and there is no evidence of vandalism or graffiti. These public places are a credit to the local Council and Flinders Island community!
Private roads
Meanwhile, we continued south, back along Palana road. After driving past the Killiecrankie airstrip we noticed a road on our RHS to Boat Harbour (West), so we went exploring. Well, this was a waste of time. It was an uninteresting road surrounded by low scrubby bush that ended in an apparently locked gate. The road was well maintained. On the Google maps Boat Harbour beach looks like a promising camping destination. In fact, a Flinders Island local suggested it to us and was surprised when we mentioned the gate and locked access. I guess “local knowledge” is needed to access this beach.
So we continued south along Palana Road.
Castle Rock on Marshall Bay Flinders Island
Heading south on Palana Road, just before the sealed section is a right-hand turn to Marshall Bay and Castle Rock (west, sign-posted). This is a short detour worth taking. The road ends on a large granite outcrop, where there is a picnic table and views over Marshall Bay (photo, above). From here there is a very easy short walk down to the iconic Castle Rock. This could be a fun overnight stop for a campervan on a less windy day!
Emita, Wybalenna, Allports Beach
Back on the sealed section of Palana Road we took the western (RHS) turnoff to Emita and Port Davies Road. After Emita, we headed to Wybalenna Chapel. This is a beautiful but solemn place where the past whispers to you. We vistited the small cemetery nearby and reflected on the tragedy of the place, but also the remarkable resilience of the Tasmanian Aboriginal people.
The grassed area where the chapel and cemetery sit is littered with wombat poo and burrows (see the dark spots in the photo, above)!
Allports campground and beach
After following the signs to Allports Beach, we ended up at a well set-up day-use-only picnic area where some cars were parked. The beach isn’t visible from the picnic ground, but apparently it isn’t far away. We weren’t sure where the campground was, so we turned back and found a steep over grown track that apparently accesses the camping site. But, our van wasn’t going to negotiate this track, so we left without seeing Allports Beach. Back on Port Davies Road, we continued past the turnoff to Wybalenna till we saw a sign-posted track on the left to Lillies Bay.
Camping at Lillies Bay, Port Davies Road, Flinders Island
We bumped along the rough and at times, washed-out, Port Davies Road in our old van till we reached a private gate (530 Port Davis Road). Close by was a turn-around area that made an excellent campsite and best of all — there was no one else around!
Evidence of previous campers included an almost usable long-drop toilet with remants of fresh loo paper and some fishing equipment under a bush. We settled in immediately, having a nutritious dinner made with fresh foods brought from home. Then we enjoyed a long comfortable sleep from 7:30 pm.
The next morning, we lay in bed watching the sun rise over the water. I enjoyed a leisurely swim, while Graham was cooking breakfast. Today, it was sunny enough to put up the awning on our van. However, because of the windy conditions, this was the only day we used the awning.
After breakfast I headed back into the water. Graham had a quick dip (duck dive fashion) then went exploring with Fraser. After lunch, I had another swim, of course! Then I sat in the sun, on a rock to dry out. Oh, and I may have done some knitting, too! We were in bed by 7:30 and lights out by 8:30pm. Another great day in paradise!
Skinny dipping in Lillies Bay on Flinders Island
The next morning (Saturday), it was partially overcast. Then after a calm start to the day, the wind came in. But, down on the beach it was still sheltered, so I spent the day on the beach – swimming, sitting in the sun and reading a book. Graham had another very short swim, then took Fraser for a walk. It was slow pace and relaxing.
Fraser disgraced himself by chasing a large wallaby into the bay. He even swam in after it! So, Fraser was put back on his lead.
Campervan cuisine
Campervan cuisine
Meeting local residents
In the afternoon a family from Emita arrived. They spent the afternoon snorkling around the rocks in search of abalone. No more skinny dipping for me. Instead, I walked in waste-deep water exploring around the rocks.
The family of three had moved to Flinders Island from New Zealand several months earlier. The husband was working on local shipping around Tasmania and New Zealand, while his wife had employment at a local child-care centre. They seemed very happy to be living here.
Meeting Zeer
In the late afternoon a lady in a small 4WD arrived and set up camp immediately behind us. She joined us for a chat. This lovely lady, named Zeer, had moved to Whitemark from Hobart several years ago and was working on Flinders Island as a contract gardener. Lillies Bay is one of her favourite get-away camping locations.
Zeer convinced us we should return to Jude’s private campground in Killiecrankie, because the walks along the beach and up the mountain were “not to be missed”. She also recommended returning to West End Road and driving further to Leeka and out to Egg Beach.
Strong wind from the west
Early Sunday morning, Zeer left us a postcard wishing us well for our holiday on Flinders Island. The wind coming in from the west was fierce, there were white caps in the bay and it was cold. No wonder that Zeer had packed up!
Mobile phone coverage on Flinders Island
We stayed in our van, reading, listening to the radio and speaking to James. Yes! there was good Telstra coverage across Flinders Island. We phoned Jude in Killiecrankie who informed us that the weather was unpleasant there, too, and not suitable for walks. She suggested waiting a few days.
Patriarch Inlet
Drought and weeds
We turned East to escape the wind, following the sealed road (C801) to Memana and gravel road to Patriarch Inlet. This took us through very dry cattle and sheep country where the extent of the drought and infestations of feral weeds were obvious. There were large tussocks of pampas grass at the entrance to several properties.
Another weed, hard to miss on Flinders Island, is the Sea spurge that grows along the beaches. It even features in some of my photos.
No bird-watching today!
The road ends with a small car-parking area at the mouth of the Patriarch River. Here there is a picnic table, some interpretation signage and a track out onto the sand flats. There are no other facilities, and camping is not permitted. At high tide, you can’t walk very far. Under good weather conditions and low tide, this would be an interesting and beautiful walk. It looked like there could be soldier crabs at low tide, too.
I didn’t see signs prohibiting dogs. But because of the abundant birdlife you should keep your dog, either in your car, or on a short leash.
While we stopped to talk with a couple of bird-watchers, there were other tourists in hire-cars coming and going (quickly) . They had their binoculars ready to observe the birdlife. But, because of the poor weather, there wasn’t much to see. Then it started to rain, so we all packed up and left!
The bird-watching couple were staying at Flinders Island Cabin Park and Hire Car near Whitemark. They were heading out daily for short walks and sight-seeing. Their accommodation and car-hire package cost $1500 for nine days.They said their cabin was too small, but still OK.
Seeking shelter in Lady Barron
We returned to Lady Baron via Lachrana Road (C803) then Lady Barron Road (B85). This takes you past the transfer station, so we dumped our rubbish. After driving down Pot Boil Road, past the Furneaux Tavern, we reached Yellow Beach picnic area. A very large caravan and 4WD parked near the turn-around, meant there was no room for us to park, so we returned towards the town again.
We found a small rough tack down to an area where people put their kayaks into the water. Here there was a flat area sheltered under a canopy of tea trees. This was not exactly like the picturesque camps we had been enjoying! But it gave us some shelter from the wind gusts and rain. Regardless, we still slept well.
The next morning (Monday), the wild weather persisted. We drove back to Yellow Beach, only to find the Victorian man with the large caravan still there. We spoke briefly with him. It had cost him over $3000 to bring his big rig over to Flinders Island on the Matthew Flinders! He did lot of whinging about the National Parks management on Flinders Island and then shared his rather bizarre views on why we were paying so much money to maintain the National Parks. After filling our water tank with fresh rain water, we decided to bid him goodbye and head back to Whitemark.
Groceries in Whitemark
Droving cattle along the road
We drove the coastal road back to Whitemark. This is an interesting alternative to the sealed road. Here we met up with a drover walking his cattle alongside the road. This grazier explained that Flinders isalnd was experiencing one the worst droughts ever.
The Sydney Troopy Campers
In Whitemark, we ran in to a couple at the IGA, who had come over on the Matthew Flinders with us. This older couple from Sydney were travelling in a Troopy Camper (Toyota 4WD conversion). The last few days they had been camping at Patriarchs reserve and North East River. Apparently they got very wet on a recent walk and needed to dry out in Whitemark. It was obvious, they didn’t want to stop and talk with us. BTW my son tells me I talk too much!
Excellent IGA
Walkers IGA on Patrick St, is surprisingly good for such a small town! It is like the tardis–bigger on the inside than on the outside. We were able to stock up on fresh foods, including Tassie apples, salad vege, loaf bread and Easter buns.
Friendly cafe staff
We had a not-t00-impressive coffee at an unnamed cafe opposite the closed Flinders Island Bakery on Lagoon Road. The cafe food may not have been a highlight of our trip to Flinders Island, but the staff were friendly and the cafe was warm and comfortable. The other small cafe, Cate Cooks, on Lagoon St was closed.
Earlier, Zeer had recommended the Trousers Point coastal walk. So, taking her advice, we turned south and headed to Trousers Point.
Camping at Trousers Point
At the end of Trouser Point Road there is a small car parking area with excellent day-use-only facilities (under cover electric BBQs and picnic tables, well stocked clean hybrid toilets). A short distance away is the camping ground which is for tents only and has no suitable space for campervans.
We also explored the road to Fotheringate Beach, but the sloping car park here, was not suitable for a campervan, either. So we stayed parked in front of the no camping sign at Trousers Point for the night!
Trousers Point coastal walk
Despite the wind gusts, we decided to walk the coastal track to Fotheringate Beach. This walk lived up to its reputation as a great short walk. We walked on an angle, as the off-shore wind blew us uphill. The ocean was boiling and the waves were crashing below onto the rocks. Mount Chappell Island dominated the coastal view for much of the walk. This island has an infamous reputation for growing Tiger snakes! High above us, the mist was swirling round the granite outcrops. Hold on to your hat, it was a terrific short walk!
The inquisitive wallabies, were too big a temptation for Fraser, so he was confined to barracks (inside the van) while we completed the coastal walk. BTW Fraser was the reason we didn’t attempt the Mount Strzelecki walk. Dogs are not permitted in the National Park.
It was too cold for a swim today!
After the walk, we enjoyed our Easter buns with coffee. Then Graham settled in for a snooze. Fraser, meanwhile, couldn’t keep his eyes off the wallabies near our van. I wished I could have anaesthetised him! Van life. We had a salad wrap for dinner, talked with James on the mobile, read books, knitted and watched wallabies. It was a very moon-lit evening outside. Lights out at 10.
Tuesday morning Graham cooked french-fried easter buns, juice and coffee for breakfast. Then we enjoyed a slow walk on Trousers Point Beach.
Interesting seaweeds on the beach
As we were packing up to leave, Zeer arrived with her son and his girlfriend to do the coastal walk. We enjoyed another chat and were given another great tourist tip – Walkers Lookout off Memana Road (C803).
So, off we headed, via Whitemark and the IGA. We needed to buy doggy dental sticks to remove Frasers doggy breath!
Walkers Lookout
Walkers Lookout is sign-posted off Memana Road (c803). Zeer wasn’t exaggerating when she said this is the best hill on the island to view all the mountain ranges and scenery out to the ocean. Although, the experience was somewhat diminished for us, due to the strong wind and low cloud cover. But the experience was still worth negotiating the scary steep and narrow gravel road and wind-chill factor at the top.
There are no public facilites on this hill-top clearing, just a Telstra tower. But there are excellent interpretation signs, describing the features you can see.
Camping at Killiecrankie on Flinders Island
Based on Zeer’s recommendation, we had phoned Jude and booked two nights at her private campground. So, we bumped our way along on the Killiecrankie road again.
Jude was fully booked, but managed to find us a camp site down a rarely used side road on her property. The camp ground is very basic. It has a simple cement-block toilet and shower. Although it is up to guests to clean the bathroom, it was very clean. It is also up to guests to fire up the timber-fuelled hot water system if they wish to have a warm shower. (We chose to use our own gas-heated shower. BTW the Smarttek gas shower was the only “fail” I awarded to our van equip during the trip)
The campground has no views, but it is right next to the beach behind a sand dune, and only a short walk to the town’s public facilites, which are excllent.
Killiecrankie Beach is a short walk from the campground
The Sydney Troopy campers were staying at Jude’s too. The advantage to booking a site here, is not only that it is cheap (~$10 per day), but you can drive out during the day and still have your site when you return. So this makes a good home-base for exploring the island.
Flinders Island olive orchard
Jude has a 1000-tree olive orchard, too. She is a lovely lady (about our age) who has been living on the Flinders Island for around 30 years. Apparently the campground and its basic facilites were originally provided for the volunteer olive pickers for her farm. But, because there was demand for camping at Killiecrankie she opened it up for tourists, outside the harvesting period. It was sad to hear that her business partner and co-founder of the olive farm had died. I imagine It is not easy to manage the property on her own. I would love to have talked with her more, but she was very busy preparing olive oil for an important client from Sydney. We did manage to purchase some of her award-winning olive oil though!
Killiecrankie diamonds
We also met a local man called Sandro Donati who was helping Jude. He helped us too – with filling our water tank. And, he shared some amazing crisp, juicy apples from his garden with us!
We caught up with Sandro in his gallery, The White Shack, when were back in Whitemark. Turns out that he is a talented gold and silversmith. He showed us a collection of Killiecrankie daimonds, from raw to polished, cut and set. You should check out his gallery and have a chat. He is a most interesting character!
Beach walk to Stacky’s Bight
The next morning looked close to ideal for beach walking. But, of course, we still had a slow start. What is a holiday, if you can’t sleep in? After an amazing hot breakfast of bacon, eggs, tomato etc, we set out along the beach at 11 am.
Some track notes suggest you should only “attempt” this walk at low tide, and the same notes make the walk seem a little daunting. But the reality is that the easy walk across the rocks is well marked and we only encountered rising tide water in one small cove.
If you wish to avoid the beach rock-hopping, then you can walk along a 4WD track above the beach. You will find the entry point to this track just in front of the only private beach house near Quoin Road. Note that when you reach a fork in the 4WD track (heading to Stacky’s), take the top fork in the road.
The tracks are well marked
There is an intersection in the track where you can either continue to Stacky’s Bight, or head off to the East Peak (K1) of Mount Killiecrankie. This is the Diamond Gully Track. We continued to Stacky’s Bight. The walking track takes you up some wooden steps above the Bight. Then there are steps down to a beach suitable for swimming. There is evidence here of families having used this beach – fishing gear, a child’s sunglasses, a hat and a stand-up paddle board. We returned to the track and contined to the Dock.
Living rough near the beach
Later, we heard the story behind the abandoned SUP (stand-up-paddle board). Apparently, a very fit (and eccentric?) man had lived just behind the beach in a makeshift shack for many months. Residents at Killiecrankie used see him paddling across the bay.
We didn’t continue to The Dock because we were distracted by a wallaby track going under some bush, which revealed a less-used track down to another more secluded bay. We couldn’t resist exploring this track. You can see me standing above the beach (photo, above). The track was a little slidey, but there were some helpful tree roots and branches to assist.
Time for a swim – naturally!
Who could resist this clear calm water? We spent some time here. When it was time to leave, I was pleased nobody could see us doing our Mr Bean contortion act trying to get dressed without getting sand in our socks, undies, clothes… It was warm enough today to get sunburnt. What a contrast to the previous days!
Of course when we were back on the track above the beach, the Sydney Troopy Campers were marching down the track in front of us. Presumably they had walked to the Dock? They had a near miss LOL.
We didn’t continue the ~45 minutes further to the Dock. We were back at our van by 3 pm. Brave little Fraser completed the walk with us. But he harassed us to be carried on the final leg of the beach walk.
Checking out the weather conditons for Easter
After a cold night we woke to mostly blue skies on Thursday morning. After taking Fraser for a walk along Killiecrankie Beach to Diamond Creek, we talked with some Council workers and two policemen at the Killiecrankie park. I’m guessing they were checking out the beach conditions for the Easter weekend! The forecast was looking good!
We left Killiecrankie mid-morning to take a look at Sawyers Beach.
Camping at Sawyers Beach, Arthurs Bay
At Arthurs Bay, we followed a rough track down to the beach. It took some skilled driving, not to disappear into a deep rut. But, by lunchtime we had set up camp on Sawyers Beach next to a picnic table. There were no other facilites here. To us, it looked perfect!
Perfect bay for kayaks and fishing boats, too!
The weather was good and the water was crystal clear. So, I was about to dash in au naturale, when I noticed a lone kayaker. He came ashore right in front of us! Fortunately he didn’t set up camp, but he did stay for a couple of hours, till his partner picked him up in a ute.
Then, just as Graham was attempting a clothing optional swim, a man and his son arrived with a small fishing boat. They set a net just off the shore, then came over for a chat. The man promised us a fish, if he managed to catch anything.
Undeterred, we walked further down the beach where large rounded boulders were partially submerged in the water. We were floating around, enjoying the sunshine, when, blow-me-down, a group of kayakers silently came in around the boulders and sprung us. We had thought we were safe hiding behind a large rock!
Fish on Good Friday and the kindness of strangers
On Friday morning, just as the sun was breaking, we were woken by Thursday’s fishers arriving to check their nets. (BTW Fraser, didn’t allow the intruders to sneak in.) Regarding the fish, we were out of luck because the only fish they caught was a flathead half-eaten by a stingray.
We went back to sleep, only to be woken up again around 7:30 by a woman knocking on our door, Come on! Get up! I’ve got your breakfast! Our fisherman’s sister arrived to give up some Snapper fillets. Afterall, she said, they couldn’t let us eat tinned tuna on Good Friday! How delightful. So we enjoyed snapper grilled in butter with lemon juice for lunch and dinner.
Perfect Easter weather
The sun was out and there was almost no wind. In the morning there was a very low tide, so we went exploring around the rocks.
There were other visitors, too. The mother and daughter from Emita, who we had met at Lillies Bay, went for a long walk along the beach and rocks, a young couple walked (briefly) around the rocks and grandparents enjoyed a swim with a young child. So, it was a little too communal for skinny dipping LOL.
The young girl from Emita showed us her collection of interesting finds, including sea urchin, abalone and small crab and scallop shells. Flinders Island must be a great place for a child to grow up!
So, it was another great day of exploring, swimming, sitting on the beach, knitting and reading. I finished another book and knitted another beanie!
The interesting granite rocks around Sawyers Beach
Living on the edge
Mutton bird season on Flinders Island
In the afternoon our fishers returned. This time they had a larger boat and joked about having a boat for every day of the week! The family headed out about 4 kms to a small island to go mutton-birding. It was a successful trip. Each of the three family members collected 25 mutton bird chicks.
I was secretly pleased that they didn’t offer to give us one. Although I have eaten mutton bird–baked, grilled and smoked–I can’t say I am a great fan of this delicasy. It’s a bit like eating durian. It tastes good while you are eating it, but then you regret the experience, because the smell stays with you long after it has been digested.
Camping in Whitemark on the wharf
Saturday morning was another day of calm sunny weather. Today, we packed up by 9:30 and headed back to Whitemark.
Whitemark laundromat
We did our laundry in the well-maintained, clean laundromat opposite the cafe with no name in Lagoon St. Here we met up with the Sydney Troopy couple and the group of rock-climbers who had been camping at Jude’s. Always good to have a chat!
Lunch at The Wharf
We parked on the Whitemark wharf not far from The Wharf where we enjoyed lunch out on the deck (with Fraser). They had seriously good pastries and coffee, but unfortunately no crisp green salads. By this time, I was missing the fresh garden salads! Even the local IGA had run out of salad mixes for the Easter long-weekend.
Friendly local community in Whitemark on Flinders Island
We had a walk around Whitemark, dropping in to an artist’s gallery and Sandro’s White Shack. A small timber shed was open as a fresh market. We purchased some delicious apples. Then we settled in for a music session on the steps of the local pub. Easter Saturday was a pleasant day to be out and about.
Not so private over-night campsite on the wharf
We decided to stay parked on the wharf for the night. So, we sat up watching families fishing off the wharf and then listening to the loud dinner party at the restaurant. About one week earlier, we had tried to make a reservation for the same dinner, but it was sold out. This was to be a treat for my birthday. Instead, we dined in.
We were bathed in flood light till quite late. Three excitable young Kelpies danced around trying to entice Fraser out of the van, till the owners finally left at about 8pm. Each time I tried to leave the van to visit the public loo, the dogs jumped on me licking my legs and trying to push past me to get into the van. So, I had to hold on!
Finally the lights dimmed and the wharf fell silent except for the swish and slap of the ocean against the wharf.
The Wombat Rock Walk to the summit of Mount Killiecrankie
Easter Sunday was calm and sunny across the Island, so we decided it was the best day to climb Mount Killiecrankie.
On Palana road, we drove past the LHS turn-off to Killiecrankie heading to Palana. At about 6.6 km past this turn-off there is a power pole (#321) on the RHS with a supporting stay (#31) on the LHS. This is the LHS (west) turn-off to Dock Road which takes you to the start of the Wombat Rock walk. It was not sign-posted when we were there.
The road was in poor condition with deep ruts and was challenging in places. There is a turn-around car parking area (called top car park) just before the start of a closed 4WD track. I’m guessing this steep 4WD track ends at The Dock rock formation.
The Top Carpark
On Easter Sunday, there were a few vehicles parked in the Top Carpark. Just note, that you should take care where you park, because other cars arriving after you may make it difficult to drive out. (This was the case for us!)
It was disappointing to see energy-bar wrappers and drink bottles and cans discarded in the car park. Everywhere else we had been, had been so clean! We picked up the rubbish and took it with us in the van.
The track to Mount Killiecrankie on Flinders Island is well marked
We met other small groups walking on the K1 track, but only one couple continued with us to K1. Presumably, the others were walking to Stacky’s Bight and the Dock. We met up with Freya and Scott at the K1 summit where they took our photo. This couple originally met 30 years ago when they were both visiting Flinders Island and were now happily living at Blue Rocks. Of course, it is a small world – they are related to some people who live near us in Branxholm!
Community-maintained tracks and signs
They explained to us that the track and signage was built and is maintained by local volunteers, including themselves. They have done an amazing job, too! The track is easy to follow and not too steep or difficult. Although, I wouldn’t recommend completing the walk to the summit in high wind or rain.
We sat in the shade of a large granite boulder looking out at the view while we ate lunch. It’s was good to soak in the expansive views. We were back at our car before 13:00. Fraser was pleased to curl up in his bed!
Camping at Leeka on Flinders Island
Taking yet more of Zeer’s earlier advice we returned south on Palana Road and west onto Westend Road. We drove past our earlier campsite near pole 41 to a T intersection. In front of us was an older-style house. The road splits here to Mount Tanner (RHS) and 4WD track only (LHS).
Oh no! We assumed this was the end of the road for us, so we turned to drive back. Then a small buzz box sedan went zooming past us down the track leaving a cloud of dust!
So we parked and went for a walk to check out the condition of the road. One fork in the road lead down to a dry creek and didn’t look too promising and the other lead uphill. After walking for some distance, we made the decision to bring the van up the road. While I waited in the shade on the side of the road with Fraser (Yes! it was actullay hot) Graham started walking back.
He didn’t need to walk far before a man in a ute picked him up and drove him back to our van. This was great because, the man was able to give Graham the local Intel. The road was in good condition and suitable for our van. The best beach camping sites at the end of the road were occupied, but we might like to camp near the boat ramp.
We found a great park site on top of a granite rock slab. The nearby ramp was busy with small boats and families, so it wasn’t as private as we may have liked. But, of course, busy on Flinders Island is nothing like busy on popular Tasmanian or mainland beaches!
It was just a short hop, skip and jump into the sparkling clear water, and that’s exactly what I did!
Best swim on Finders Island
The next morning, the low tide revealed a gently sloping beach. The water was calm and deep. This was definately the best and longest swim I had on Flinders Island. It was bliss!
We were also joined in the water by a group of two men and a woman. They were staying a few kilometres away in short-stay accommodation. They were frequent visitors to Flinder Island, and like several other visitors we had met, they were actively seeking to purchase a beach house on the island.
Although there were several beach houses in Leeka for short-term rental, nothing beats the freedom of just parking a van next to the water!
Rough weather alert – sailing postponed
By mid afternoon the wind had picked up and the previously calm ocean was whipping up into white caps. Then the rain started. We packed up in case we needed to leave in a hurry. However, the man who had driven Graham down the road the day before was at the boat ramp and he reassured us that even if there was heavy rain, our van would drive out OK. So we stayed warm and cosy in our van all night and didn’t leave till after indulgent french-fried easter buns and coffee for breakfast.
It was hard to imagine just how perfect the weather had been the previous day. Because now, the wind was wild and the sea was rough. Then, we received a text informing us that the ship had been delayed by at least 12 hours. It was so good to be in a van and to have mobile phone reception! Delays like this could be problematic if we had stayed in short-term accommodation.
Camping at Whitemark (again)
Dont bother with Badgers Corner
On the advice of a local at one of our campsites, we drove through Whitemark and Lady Barren to explore Badger Corner. Badger Corner Road is a no through road that hugs a shoreline of tidal sand and mud flats opposite agricultural grazing land. I don’t recommend this drive, because there were no obvious places to explore the shore, just boat ramps. Then the road comes to an abrupt end at a gate to private property. Graham had to reverse more than 100 m to find an area to turn our van around!
Camping on the Esplanade
We poked around Lady Barren looking for a place to stay overnight, but didn’t feel good about the options. Back to Whitemark, we drove. This time we camped on the Esplanade in a day use only area near a picnic table (image-1 below)
Driving down the Esplanade in Whitemark towards the Golf (and other sports) Club there is a great potential location for vans right next to the water (images 2 and 3 , above). Unfortunatley this was closed-off with a temporary fence and a tractor. So, once again we ended up parking in a no camping area.
Our last day on Flinders Island
After enjoying morning tea in the Whitemark Hotel’s cosy cafe, re-fueling with diesel and generally hanging around in Whitemark talking with locals and tourists, we arrived back in Lady Barren in the late afternoon.
We parked at the pier. I had a hot shower, then settled in for some knitting and listening to the radio. Graham and Fraser amused themselves with a walk around the pier and talking to some yachties. We had our last dinner on board the van, then departed Lady Barren at 11 pm, arriving back in Bridport around 7 am.
In the spotlight
Our sail back home was simliar to our trip to Flinders, except for having a new Captain. Our new Captain, was more by-the-rule than our previous captain. He was reluctant to allow us to overnight in our van, so he put some conditions on us. He threatened to monitor the cameras down on the deck, and if we were seen out of our van, we would be marched upstairs to the passenger lounge for the duration!
Well, that didn’t sound too onerous. As we were leaving the pier, it was dark down on the deck and perfect for sleeping. But, soon as were we out at sea, flood lights came on and we were lit up like a theatre stage! This was a tad embarrassing. But Graham managed to snore through the epic.
Knitting? Did I mention knitting?
[…] Island is all about clear ocean water, deserted beaches where you can safely skinny-dip, unique rock formations and wind! And, the best way to explore this unique island, is in a van. So, […]